When a manual charge is performed, the charger will continue to charge
and will not cycle or shut down by itself, even after the
battery is fully charged. It will continue to put current at
the selected setting to the battery until the charger is
disconnected. You must keep a visual check on the ammeter to
determine when the battery is fully charged. The use of a
hydrometer or voltmeter to monitor the battery state of
charge is recommended for use with all manual battery
chargers. Be sure to monitor the charging process and stop
it when the battery is charged. Not doing so may cause
damage to the battery or result in other property damage or
personal injury.
What is Automatic Charging?
When an automatic charge is performed, the charger stops charging and
switches to the Maintain Mode (Float-Mode Monitoring)
automatically after the battery is fully charged. Automatic
chargers are more forgiving on the battery than manual
chargers but are not designed for indefinite or maintenance
use. Automatic chargers use a cycling process (see Maintain
Mode) to prevent overcharging the battery.
What is Maintain Mode?
When the CHARGED LED is lit; the charger has started Maintain Mode. In
this mode, the charger keeps the battery fully charged by
delivering a small current when necessary. If the battery
voltage drops below a preset level, the charger will go back
in to Charge Mode until the battery voltage returns to the
full charge level, which at this point the charger will
return to Maintain Mode. The charger automatically switches
between Charge Mode and Maintain Mode as necessary. The
CHARGED LED will cycle on when the battery is at full charge
and off when the voltage drops below a preset level and the
charger goes into Charge Mode. The cycle will continue, and
the CHARGED LED will stay on for longer periods of time as
the battery becomes more fully charged. The voltage is
maintained at a level determined by the BATTERY TYPE
selected.
NOTE: The maintain mode technology utilized in Schumacher’s maintainers
allows you to safely charge and maintain a healthy battery
for extended periods of time. However, problems with the
battery, electrical problems in the vehicle, improper
connections or other unanticipated conditions could cause
excessive voltage draws. As such, occasionally monitoring
the battery and the charging process is recommended.
When should I use a 2-amp, 10-amp, 12-amp, or 15-amp charge
rate?
This depends on how fast you want to charge your battery and the size
of the actual battery you are charging. The higher the amp
setting, the faster your battery will charge. For smaller
batteries like lawn/tractors and motorcycles, we suggest a
2-amp charge rate, as higher charge rates may create a
dangerous condition. Check your battery specifications for
the charge rate.
Why doesn't my battery charger shut off in the 2-amp
position when charging my vehicle or deep-cycle battery?
The 2-amp charge rate is intended for small batteries such as
motorcycles, snowmobiles and lawn garden tractors.
Consequently, when trying to charge a larger battery at that
rate, it will take a very long time and the battery may
discharge at a greater rate than the 2-amp charge can
provide. It is better to charge a deep cycle battery at a
higher charge rate like 6-amps, 10-amps or higher. However,
check you battery specifications for the proper charge rate.
The amp meter shows how much current the battery charger is outputting
to the battery. When you turn on the charger, it outputs a
high amount of current (electrical power). For example, if
you select the 12-amp rate to charge the battery, the
charger needle will be closer to the 12 on the right side.
As the battery charges, the needle will drop to
approximately half of the selected amperage rate indicating
the battery is fully charged (For example: 6-amps).
Why is there more than one red area on the charger's amp
meter?
The red area represents the charge rate you selected at the beginning
of battery charging. The red area on the far right is for
the higher, amperage charge rate. The red area to the left
indicates rates for the 2-amp position. In both instances,
the needle starts in the red area, and as the battery
becomes charged, drops to the left towards the larger green
area.
What does it mean when the green LED blinks ON/OFF and the
needle bounces?
All automatic battery chargers in the automotive market today have some
sort of voltage regulation to prevent overcharging the
battery. The rate of the flashing is dependent on the
battery type, its rated capacity, the degree of discharge,
its age, the temperature, as well as the amperage rating of
the battery charger.
If the charger's green LED begins blinking when you connect the charger
clips to the battery, the amperage in-rush current to the
battery is reaching the pre-set shut-off voltage and the
charger is shutting down. The voltage will drop as soon as
the charger shuts down, turning the charger back on. This
may also mean the charger has detected a battery problem -
for instance, its ability to take or hold a charge.
Sometimes a battery may be sulfated (accumulation of lead
sulfate on the battery plates), and the sulfation is
creating a high resistance to the current flow (ability to
accept a charge). Or, perhaps the battery is deeply
discharged (below 8-volts).
There is no meter reading, but I hear a hum. How can I tell
if my battery charger is working?
Hearing a slight humming noise is normal, and a sign that the
transformer is powered up and working. Use a volt/amp meter
or battery tester to check if the battery is charged.
Why doesn't my automatic charger charge my battery?
An automatic charger is designed to power the transformer when you
first plug it into a receptacle. The automatic charger needs
to “see” at least 4 volts in the battery to power up the
circuitry. This initializes the charge sequence. When a
completely discharged battery, or one with less than 4 volts
charge remaining, is attached to the charger, the charger
never “sees” this battery and will not begin the charging
cycle. It will also cancel out the Engine Start function.
The yellow charging light will also not come on. The meter
(where used) will remain in the default “100%” position.
NOTE: Batteries that remain lower than 4 volts state of charge are
often defective or just worn out. It is always best (safer)
to check the battery with a hydrometer or Schumacher tester
before charging.
The charger's green light is on, but I still cannot start my
car - why?
In cold weather, a battery's chemistry changes and gives the battery
charger a false voltage signal. When this happens, remove
the battery from the vehicle and move it to a warm location
to warm up before charging. Never charge a frozen battery.
If the charger has a deep-cycle setting, try charging the battery for a
short period of time at a higher, amperage charge rate.
Then, try starting the vehicle again.
Why doesn't the green light stay on when my battery is
completely charged?
Three reasons:
The electronic control circuit board and LED lights
use a minor amount of battery power to operate and to
determine the battery's state-of-charge. This results in
the battery charger having to periodically charge the
battery back to full charge. Consequently, the green
light goes on and off as this process occurs.
All batteries have some internal power losses, which
the charger is replenishing similar to #1.
The length of time that the green light is on is
dependent on the battery type, its rated capacity, the
degree of discharge, its age, and temperature.
Why don't I get sparks when I touch the battery clips
together, creating a short?
With electronic short-circuit protection, the battery charger must be
able to measure a battery's voltage before it turns on.
There is no output power in the clips until they are hooked
up to a lead-acid battery.
How long can I use the Engine Start/Cranking Assist on my
charger?
The engine start/cranking assist feature on your charger is for short
duration only (typically 3 to 5 seconds ON and 5 minutes
OFF). See the front panel of your charger for the
recommended crank time your charger allows. Charge the
battery for 15 minutes before using engine start/cranking
assist. After 15 minutes of charging, set the selector
switch to the Engine Start/Cranking Assist position. Then
try to start the engine using the ignition switch.
If the engine fails to start within 3 to 5 seconds, stop cranking. Set
the selector switch to a regular charge mode for another 10
to 15 minutes before trying to start the engine again. (You
should not attempt to charge your battery on the engine
start setting. Doing so could cause damage to your battery
or cause other property damage or personal injury.) This
rating is a UL standard based on the amperage output of the
charger at 7.2 volts for 5 seconds. Recommended cranking
assist cycles less than 5 seconds are in place to allow the
charger to dissipate the heat generated by the increased
power output through the transformer. Exceeding the
recommended time duration of your charger's cranking assist
cycle can cause damage to the charger's internal circuitry.
How long can I leave my charger connected to my battery?
The type of charger you are using more accurately determines this, but
generally your battery charger is safe to leave powered up
and connected to your battery until the battery has reached
a full charge. Manual chargers should be removed as soon as
the battery has reached a full charge. These chargers will
not cycle or shut down by themselves. They will continue to
put a current through the battery until they are
disconnected. The use of a hydrometer or voltmeter to
monitor state of charge is recommended for use with manual
battery chargers.
Automatic chargers are more forgiving on your battery than manual
chargers, but they are not designed for indefinite use. They
utilize a cycling process, as described above, to prevent
overcharging of the battery. The only charger recommended
for extended or storage application is the 1.5 amp 12-volt
charger specifically designed for long term, slow trickle
charging/maintenance applications. However, problems with
the battery, electrical problems in the vehicle, improper
connections or other unanticipated conditions could cause
excessive voltage draws. As such, occasionally monitoring
the battery and the charging process is recommended.
Why can't I measure a voltage when connecting my volt meter
to the battery clips?
No output power is supplied until the battery charger's clips are
hooked up to the battery. Then, it will measure and show the
battery's voltage.
How do I tell what type of battery I have; Flooded, AGM or
Gel?
Flooded or Wet Cell batteries are the most common lead-acid battery
type in use today. They usually are not sealed and
electrolyte can be added through holes in the top casing of
the battery. Gel Cell batteries are sealed and cannot be
re-filled with electrolyte. Therefore they have a smooth top
with no access holes. AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries are
the latest step in the evolution of lead-acid batteries.
They are sealed like Gel Cell batteries but are smaller and
can be recognized by their compact size.
What is the correct charging voltage for my battery?
That depends on the battery. While most of today’s automotive and
marine batteries are 12 volt, some motorcycle and lawn
tractor batteries are 6 volt. Check the battery and the
owner’s manual of the vehicle the battery came out of for
the correct voltage. The value of the charge rate voltage is
determined by the battery manufacturer. Deviating from the
recommended values will under or overcharge the battery –
both of which will reduce the battery’s life and
performance.
What is a trickle charger?
The difference between a float charger and a trickle charger is that
the float charger has circuitry to prevent overcharging the
battery. It senses when the battery voltage is at the
maximum level and temporarily shuts off the charge (floats
voltage at zero or a very minimal charge until it senses
that the battery output voltage has fallen and then resumes
charging). It may be kept connected indefinitely. A trickle
charger, on the other hand, will charge no matter whether
the battery is fully charged or not, so it needs to be
connected and disconnected periodically. If left in place
too long, it will eventually boil the electrolyte out of the
cells or damage the plates. Trickle chargers will work to
keep the battery charged, if used once a month or so for a
day or two, but the float chargers can be left connected
longer without potential harm to the battery.
What happens if the power goes out and comes back on during
charging?
That depends on what charger you are using. A manual charger will keep
charging as if it was just turned on. An automatic charger
on the other hand may or may not continue charging depending
on where it was at in the charging process when the power
went out. If the battery is still sufficiently discharged,
the charger will continue to charge the battery, but if the
battery was almost fully charged, the charger may go into
maintain mode early. The only effect this will have on your
battery is it may take a longer time to reach a full charge.
You may also have to readjust the settings because the
charger will come back on with the default settings.
How can I tell if my battery needs to be replaced?
If your battery won’t accept a charge or won’t stay charged as long as
it used to, replace it.
Can a Schumacher charger be used to charge more than one
battery at a time?
Most cars and boats have 12 volt batteries, two batteries are used to
gain more amperage, meaning they are wired in parallel but
the voltage stays the same. Batteries wired in series (like
a flashlight) give double the voltage (two 12 volt batteries
wired in series makes 24 volts but your amperage stays
constant.) To charge both batteries at the same time you
need to make sure they are wired in parallel. The two
batteries should be connected to each other positive to
positive and negative to negative. Then attach the charger
positive to the positive on one battery and the negative to
the negative of the OTHER battery. Do not hook both leads up
to one battery. It will obviously take longer to charge two
batteries than it will to charge one. If they are set up to
run as 24 volts (wired in series), you will either need to
disconnect the jumper wire that connects the two batteries
and charge them as two 12 volt batteries or use a 24 volt
charger.
Why is the fan on all of the time?
It is normal for the fan to be on all the time in order to keep the
transformer and electrical circuitry cool during normal
charger use. Keep the area near the charger clear of
obstructions to allow the fan to operate efficiently.
What is the purpose of the 24” cable and where do I purchase
one?
The 24 inch (61 cm) long 6 gauge (AWG) insulated battery cable referred
to in the owner’s manual is for safety purposes. Since the
last connection you make to the battery is at the free end
of the cable, as far away from the battery as possible, any
arcing or sparking will occur away from the explosive gases
generated by the battery. As an additional precaution, we
also tell you not to face the battery when making this final
connection. This cable is a standard battery cable and can
be purchased from any auto parts store.
The portable power unit is not charged and I just took it
out of the box, is it defective?
No. Every Portable Power Jump-Pack unit’s battery is fully charged when
it leaves our factory. One must factor in the amount of time
the unit has spent sitting in warehouses and on store
shelves, before it was purchased. The more time a unit sits
idle, the greater the decrease in battery power. We
recommend charging the battery immediately after purchase,
before placing the unit into service.
How do I charge my portable power jump-pack?
Our Portable Power Jump-Packs are manufactured to include an internal
charger. A simple household extension cord (18 AWG or
larger) is used to power the internal charger. Plug the
extension cord into an outlet, and connect the cord into the
receptacle on the unit to charge.
How often should I re-charge the portable power jump-pack?
In the Owner’s manual we suggest to charge the internal battery of your
Portable Power Jump-Pack immediately after you purchase it,
every 30 days and after every use. By frequently charging
the battery, you maximize the power potential of the unit,
and ensure that whenever you need it, the unit will be
ready. Keeping the battery fully-charged also vastly extends
the life of the unit.
There is no output from the alligator clips of my portable
power unit, why?
One feature that may apply to your unit (IP-1850FL, IP-1875C, and
IPD-1800) is a positive connection solenoid. Simply put, the
clamps will not arc or spark until being placed on a
battery. This feature alleviates arcing and sparking until
there is a connection at the battery.
What is the jump-starting amp rating on my portable power
unit?
12 Volt DC Power Source Estimated Run Time Chart (in hours)
Appliance
Wattage
IP-75
IP-95L
IP-125
IP-1825FL
IP-1850FL
IP-1875C
IPD-1000
IPD-1800
Cell Phones
4
21
27
36
54
54
54
27
54
Fluorescent Lights
4
21
27
36
54
54
54
27
54
Radios
9
8.4
12
16
24
24
24
12
24
Depth Finders
9
8.4
12
16
24
24
24
12
24
Fans
9
8.4
12
16
24
24
24
12
24
Camcorders
15
5.6
7.2
9.6
14.4
14.4
14.4
7.2
14.4
Spotlights
15
5.6
7.2
9.6
14.4
14.4
14.4
7.2
14.4
Electric Tools
24
3.5
4.5
6
9
9
9
4.5
9
Bilge Pumps
24
3.5
4.5
6
9
9
9
4.5
9
Electric Coolers
48
1.8
2.3
3
4.5
4.5
4.5
2.3
4.5
Air Compressors
80
1.1
1.4
1.8
2.7
2.7
2.7
1.4
2.7
Car Vacuums
80
1.1
1.4
1.8
2.7
2.7
2.7
1.4
2.7
Note: These times are only estimated run times. Variations in products
may alter the run times.
110 Volt AC Power Source Chart
When the Portable Power Jump-Pack is used with an inverter, it can
operate appliances normally powered by 110V AC. (Inverter
{Not Included} is Necessary).
Does my power inverter have to be wired directly to my car
battery?
It depends on the model of the inverter and what you intend to run with
it. For electrical loads up to 200 watts, the power-inverter
can be plugged into the car’s cigarette lighter. This allows
you to power laptop computers, small power tools, most small
appliances, and even a small (13") TV directly through the
cigarette lighter. If you want to power larger equipment, or
if you want to run more than one item at a time, a direct
connection to your car battery is necessary. Generally, if
you intend to power loads of more than 200 watts, your
inverter should be direct-wired to the battery to ensure
safe operation.
Will using the inverter drain my car battery?
When using a power inverter, it is always a good idea to turn on the
car’s engine every 30 minutes to help maintain your
battery's charge. Assuming your battery is fully charged and
in good condition, it is possible to use a 400W power
inverter for about an hour (not starting your car) without
fully discharging your battery. To find how long your
battery’s charge will last with any given inverter, use this
formula: Take the wattage being used (400W) divided by the
battery voltage (12 Volts) to see how many amps are being
drawn from the inverter : 400 Watts/12 Volts = 33.33 Amps.
Inverters only convert power at around 90% efficiency, so
that means the inverter is really drawing around 37 amps
(33.33 Amps / .90 = 37 Amps). A typical car battery has a
reserve capacity of about 80 minutes (80 minutes @ 25 Amps).
So if you are drawing 37 Amps with the 400W inverter it will
completely discharge the battery in 54 minutes ((80 minutes
* 25 Amps) / 37 amps = 54 minutes).
I am getting low or no output voltage from the inverter,
why?
Either you have poor connection at the terminals. Check and clean the
12-volt connections and try again, or you are using an
incorrect type of voltmeter to test the output voltage, use
a true RMS reading meter.
What if the inverter fuse blows?
Your Schumacher power inverter comes with an input fuse that should not
have to be replaced under normal operating circumstances. A
blown fuse is usually caused by reverse polarity or a short
circuit within the appliance or equipment being operated.
If the fuse does blow:
Disconnect the appliance or equipment immediately.
Find the source of the problem, and repair it.
Install a new fuse that is the exact same type and
rating.
Attention: Do not install a fuse with a higher rating than the one
supplied with the power inverter, as this may damage the
inverter. Make sure to correct the cause of the blown fuse
before using the inverter again.
The red LED on my inverter has turned on, what is happening?
When the power input from the vehicle’s battery
drops below 11 volts, low battery shutdown occurs and
inverter shuts off. Solution: Recharge or Replace the
battery.
When the power input from the vehicle’s battery
exceeds 15-volts, high voltage overload protection
occurs. Solution: Reduce the voltage range to between
12-volts and 14-volts.
Install a new fuse that is the exact same type and
rating.The continuous load demand from the equipment or
device being operated exceeds the continuous load rating
of the inverter being used. Solution: Use a higher
capacity inverter or lower rated device.
The case temperature becomes hot (exceeds 145°F).
Solution: Allow the inverter to cool. Do not block the
cooling slots or air flow over and through the inverter.
Reduce the load on the inverter to the continuous rated
output.
The low battery alarm is constantly on, why?
The power input from the vehicle’s battery is below
11 volts. Solution: Recharge or replace the battery.
Poor or weak battery condition. Solution: Recharge
or replace the battery.
Inadequate power being delivered to the inverter or
excessive voltage drop. Solution: Check the condition of
your cigarette lighter socket. Clean or replace if
necessary.
I am trying to operate a TV with my inverter, but the TV
doesn’t work. What can I do?
Try turning the inverter ON, then OFF, then ON again. Contact the TV
manufacturer for startup surge rating and/or if the TV is
compatible with a modified sine wave. An inverter producing
a larger power output may be required.
Schumacher Electric customers have come to know and trust our products
for their durability and reliability. That's due in part to
our comprehensive warranty program - a pledge to build the
best products available on the market today.
Schumacher Electric Corporation warrants its products from the date of
purchase at retail against defective material or
workmanship. Our products offer a 90-day, 1-, 2-, 3- or
5-year limited warranty.
If you have any questions or concerns regarding a Schumacher product or
for details on specific product warranties, please call
1-800-621-5485 and a Schumacher Representative will be able
to assist you.
You can register your product for the warranty program
here.